Day 75 – Aug 26, 2015 – Rockwood PA – Cumberland MD – 45 miles
The GAP – the Greater Allegheny Passage, it helped us through the mountains with very little effort. We enjoyed it. It was a path we would recommend to others. It ascended but gradually. It was shaded. The downsides – it was dirty, very dirty. It coated our bikes and panniers with a fine white dust that reminded me of Burning Man dust, it got all over everything. But we made it through to Cumberland MD where we meet the C&O Canal towpath.
We have heard so much about the C&O, don’t ride it after a rain, there are roots and bumps. We are worried that our miles per day will be cut down to maybe 40 or 50 not more. Bad news. We had hope to get to Washington DC a day early, but that may not be the case.
Today we rode up and up an up. We had to get over the Eastern Continental Divide and then it was downhill. At the top of the “pass” we met some more fellow bike tourists, some young women who were doing the whole 350 miles. One of them had done a good portion of the Pacific coast tours, and a few of the east coast Smokey Mtn tours. She was a young graduate student from Johns Hopkins that seem enthusiastic about doing bike touring. We were excited to meet these young people and know that the torch had been passed to the next generation.
It was exciting to follow the rail lines. Some of them are gone but some are still there. Many of our nights on this journey have been spent next to rail lines – dead and alive. In Rockwood last night we stayed at a B&B where we had at least 15 trains passing the town – tooting their horns loudly at every intersection. We know that, and remember very well our night camping behind a post office in Montana. Trains, trains, trains. They have been our constant companions on this cross country trek. As we descended from the Divide down to Cumberland the path was but a couple feet from and abandoned, or rarely used rail line. I watched for treasures and found one, a rail spike – rusted and worn. Perfect, something to add to our treasures of the road that will remind us of all the trains and train lines that have been with us the whole way.
Cumberland is a stop. The town has had better days. It once was the a beautiful town many years ago, like so many of outtowns. It is sad to reflect on all we saw which was mostly decay. What does this mean about this country? Can’t really answer that right now. Cumberland has some little signs of hope, a couple of bars and restaurants to keep the downtown viable. I find that these bike routes have contributed somehow to this revival. Gregg thinks it is not enough. But the GAP path was the most frequented trail we have seen. If more families and tourist come to these towns, maybe….maybe not?
So tomorrow will be an early morning to see how we rattle and hum along the C&O canal for our last 200 miles!!?
auchandgrog
Hi Pete, Gregg here,
You probably don’t have to put to many long days on your trip. Depending on going up or down and wind, our average mph ranged between 8 and 11. 11 not very often. On most good days, we probably did about 9.5. Don’t go too fast, keep in mind you need to make all the miles without running out of energy — I always say ride at about 80% of your energy, not the 110% macho stupid effort. Remember to drink before you are thirsty (sometimes I make my self drink enough by taking a swig every mile or every other mile) and eat by the clock, do not wait until you are hungry or worse, bonked.
auchandgrog
Hi Pete, Gregg here,
I’m not sure anymore. I suggest you call Amtrak to find out. You might want to pick up the boxes from Amtrak in advance and box them at home. That is what we did. You can, instead buy the boxes at the loading dock in the back of Union Station and box the bikes there. If you do that you have to remove the pedals and turn the handle bars at the train station and thus bring the tools to do so. Don’t get a box from the local bike shop…the Amtrak boxes are much bigger and easier to work with.
auchandgrog
It is close, so close. It has been a loooooong journey. I can’t wait to be home but I know there is something that I will miss about all of this. Thank you for taking the time to read the Blog! It is exciting to know that this does not just go out into cyberspace with no one reading. Support had always been VERY welcome. It has been tough. Big hugs – and can’t wait to be back in California!!!
Pete
How early should we arrive at Amtrak before our train departure time?
Pete
You guys are putting on some good mileage. We’re hoping the miles will come easy on the upcoming San Fran trip. What kinds of mph are you averaging? What has been feeling comfortable? Any other info you can provide?
Kerstin
You so rock! Can you smell DC?
Blowing a fresh ocean breeze your way!
Thanks for taking us with you on this trip.
All the best, wishing you great spirits – with mind and body on the road and in a glass at night!
Hug from Kerstin